Author Archives: Sarah

Bathroom Remodel: Part 6, DIY Sink from Typewriter Stand

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Bathroom Remodel: Part 6, DIY Sink from Typewriter Stand

Getting rid of the old sink was actually the part that I had been looking forward to the most for this bathroom renovation. I’ve extremely disliked the sink and vanity that was in there to begin with, although the sink top was made out of Onyx, and had stood up really well to the 12 years we have lived here. This is what we started with, although we’d already taken the drawers out. Old sink with onyx top

And here is it removed.  We gave it to our local Restore store, in the hopes that someone might want it. Old sink removed

One of the main problems that I had with the sink was the fact that the faucet was only about a foot inside the doorway, which meant the sink bowl went almost to the wall.  It just made me feel like I had no elbow room.  We had ripped the sheetrock off, and our plumber, Joe, said we could move the water lines over to the left.  That’s what we did, and ended up moving the drain lines about two feet down the wall.  The only thing I was concerned with was having enough room to make it around the sink to the toilet, and enough room for the shower door to swing out. At this point, we still didn’t know how everything would fit together. New water pipes ran

Since we’d gotten rid of the original sink, we had to come up with a new one.  Double D and I had gone to all the big box stores, and nothing was just jumping out at us.  One day we were walking through an antique store, and Double D came across this old vintage typewriter stand that had a certain industrial vibe going on.  It was love at first sight. However, someone had removed the original wood top, but replaced it with some freshly stained wood.  Once I saw that, I didn’t feel so bad removing the swinging table part that was attached to it. Since I didn’t get a picture of it, you can see a picture of one similar on PinterestVintage typewriter stand base

Because the top was going to be 48″ long, we knew we’d have to have more support for the sink than just the base. We made legs out of copper, using the base for measurements, so they would line up exactly with that. copper legs built

And I painted them using Rustoleum’s Oil Rubbed Bronze.  If you are wondering why we bought copper just to paint it, we had the thought that we’d distress the copper pipes to match the fixtures for the faucet, and shower. However, we didn’t end up doing that.copper legs painted ORB

Once the flooring was finished, we could set the base where it was going. Even though the legs were going to be glued to the sink top, we also wanted them to be attached to the wall, so Double D screwed a cap into the wall on each side, and then used that to attached the legs. There was a lot of measuring involved for this process, but miraculously everything ended up being right.  No thanks to me at ALL!Connector cap installed for legs

Joe had to come back to install the sink, which he did one Saturday. Again, for the vanity top, we went with the Onyx Collection in 5/8″ Snow Swirl to match the shower.Onyx top installed

Since the faucet is wall-mounted, I wanted something to catch water from our hands, so we also installed an Onyx backsplash. That was considerably thinner at a 1/4″, but it works great. Here he has the holes drilled for the sink drain and faucet.Onyx backsplash installed

Since we were totally making this sink up as we went along, I wanted something unique for the actual sink.  I did a bit of research, and fell in love with this granite sink from LivingRoc. However, I didn’t realize when we bought it just how heavy 100 pounds really is.  I might have gone a different route if I’d realized because after it came to the house, I was a bit worried if the base would support this weight. We are now a couple of months in, and it seems to be fine though.Granite sink installed

And here is a close up of the Trinsic faucet by Delta.  It wasn’t my first choice, as I wanted a waterfall faucet, but I also wanted it to be in the same Venetian Bronze as the shower fixtures.  Delta Vero

At this point we were almost done.  And it was exactly what I had envisioned when we first saw the typewriter stand in the store. Sink finished

The last thing was that we had glass cut to go on the top of the horizontal parts of the legs. This enabled us to have a shelf of sorts, and let us see the part of the typewriter stand that was the coolest, which are the little wheels at the bottom. Glass installed on base

I love how it turned out, and it has that antique element now in the bathroom!

Thanks for looking!

Sarah

Check out the other Bathroom Renovation posts:

Bathroom Remodel: Part 1, Demo

Bathroom Remodel: Part 2, Shower Installation

Bathroom Remodel: Part 3, Drywall and Paint

Bathroom Remodel: Part 4, Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring 

Bathroom Remodel: Part 5, DIY Exposed Conduit Light Fixture

Linking up with:

Rustic & Refined

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Between Naps on the Porch

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Domestically Speaking

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Home Stories A-Z

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Bathroom Remodel: Part 5, DIY Exposed Conduit Light Fixture

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Bathroom Remodel: Part 5, DIY Exposed Conduit Light Fixture

Be forewarned…this post is a long one!

So our light situation in the bathroom went from the 1980s “Hollywood” strip light fixture to industrial.  I was more than ready to get rid of that thing. However, what I did really like about it was the amount of light it provided, since it had six bulbs.  We also had a globe light over the toilet, so that brought it up to seven total.

Hollywood strip light

I knew I wanted to keep the same amount of light bulbs, since we had spent some money changing all of them over to LED bulbs last year. The question was how were we going to be able to do that.

I was eating my lunch in the basement of where I work one day, and realized that I really liked the lighting that was down there. This is what I was inspired by.  I started looking for other ideas on Pinterest and loved what I was seeing for exposed conduit lighting.  There’s some really cool stuff out there!Pipe lights at the capitol

I got busy, and started drawing ideas up for what I wanted (BTW, an artist, I am not, so don’t laugh).  I knew we could used the electrical box that was already over the toilet, and I knew I wanted to use all seven bulbs. proposed light drawing

Then we used fabric strips to lay it out on the floor, and for our electrician friend, Jimmy, to look at, since he would be installing it. You’ll have to excuse the mess, as it was in the middle of construction. The layout did change a couple of times until we came up with something we thought would work the best. mock up of light using fabric

After we met at Lowes to get all the parts, we came back home and created a diagram, complete with conduit length measurements. Really, the only requirement that I had was that I wanted one bulb to be in the middle of the mirror when it was done. We did decide the main trunk of the conduit should be bigger to accommodate the four cords that would be at the one end, so we got 1″ conduit for that section, and two octagonal boxes with a 2″ depth.Diagram for finished light

From there we were able to start putting it together.  Jimmy brought his compact band saw, and we laid out the items we needed.Band saw to cut conduit

Once the conduit was cut to the lengths on the diagram, they started assembling the fixture.Connectors, boxes, conduit

Double D and Jimmy knocked out the metal tabs where the connectors would be for each conduit pipe, attached them to the boxes, and then connected the conduit. The boxes are used for multiple conductor runs that are split into two or more directions to bring power to a number of lights, in this case.Electrical boxes and connectors

We got the main trunk line assembled and connected the other parts. The last thing Jimmy did was to use a conduit bender to create a dip for one piece of the conduit to cross the main trunk line. For this piece, we also had to have two elbows to create corners. Conduit cut and put together

To start painting, we followed the advice of Jimmy, and wiped down all of the pieces with denatured alcohol to get any coating off of the conduit.  That way, we hoped the paint would stick well. I then sprayed all of the pieces with Rustoleum’s primer, including the hangers, box covers, and nuts and bolts. I let that sit for a couple of days, and didn’t notice any primer peeling away, or cracking. Primer coat for EMT

I then gave everything a couple of coats of Rustoleum’s Oil Rubbed Bronze to match the sink legs, and shower fixtures.Rustoleum's Oil Rubbed Bronze

Finally, it was install day.  Jimmy removed the light fixture over the toilet, and used the wire there to start hooking everything up. Once the first part went up, he did reconnect the fixture so they would have some light in the bathroom while they worked.First part of conduit

The guys then screwed the conduit hangers into the ceiling using the larger size for the 1″ conduit in the main trunk line. conduit hangers installed

And started hanging the conduit…11/2

Once the conduit was up they could start with the lights.  We purchased seven Hemma lamp cords from IKEA, to go with the seven Ledare LED bulbs we already had. I’m not an electrician, so I’m not even going to try to explain all of the steps that this involved.  I do know Jimmy and Double D threaded each lamp cord through to leave about 6″ hanging outside of the ends of the conduit. wires being threaded for conduit light

And then somehow connected all seven cords to the main box…wire pulled through for light

And let there be light! Like a lot of light. I knew it would be a different type of light, since it’s directed down now, instead of out from the wall.  You can definitely still see your grey hair and wrinkles though:) Industrial conduit light finished

I did want to show a close up of the bent conduit, and what it ended up looking like.  It was hard to tell how it was going to look while it was laying on the concrete in the garage, but I think it definitely gives the fixture character, and I’m glad we went with it. bent conduit

I love this last picture of it.  I took this by practically laying on the ground under it.  I just love how it turned out, and I can honestly say that this fixture is one of a kind.  One last step I did was spray some ORB in a plastic lid, and touched up the paint on the hardware and pipe, just wherever they dinged it in the process of installing it. I am a bit worried about the conduit rusting from steam condensation, and I want to make sure I do everything I can to hold that off for a while.  Hopefully the paint will help with that!finished light against the ceiling

I have to give big props to Jimmy for being willing to take on one of my crazy ideas, and work with me to get it done. It turned out better than I even thought it would:)

Thanks for hanging in there till the end!

Sarah

Check out the other Bathroom Renovation posts:

Bathroom Remodel: Part 1, Demo

Bathroom Remodel: Part 2, Shower Installation

Bathroom Remodel: Part 3, Drywall and Paint

Bathroom Remodel: Part 4, Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring 

Bathroom Remodel: Part 6, DIY Sink from Typewriter Stand

Linking up with:

Rustic & Refined

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Between Naps on the Porch

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Domestically Speaking

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Home Stories A-Z

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A Stroll Thru Life

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Grandma’s House DIY

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Bathroom Remodel: Part 4, Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring

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Bathroom Remodel: Part 4, Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring

When we first moved in to the house, there was a lovely blue and white linoleum in the bathroom.  We lived with that forever, until in 2013, when we ripped it up, and laid down some peel and stick 12×12″ tiles, in a dark brown stained concrete look.  I actually liked the look of those, but I also knew the brown color wouldn’t fit in this bathroom.  I liked it so much that I tried to get the same look this time around, only in grey. This is what it had looked like, taken on the day we were installing it in 2013.Dark stained concrete look

We started doing demo on the flooring first, and realized that the sticky residue would make it really hard to work in the bathroom.  So we ripped up the underlayment too.  That left us with what we think is the original cream 1970s flooring, which we tried like crazy to get up…before we gave up. That stuff literally was not budging.

We also knew that we wanted to change the position of the toilet.  It was just really awkward the way it was facing, so we cut a hole in the floor to expose the pipes.  We had to have Joe, our plumber, look at it to see if they could be moved to accommodate a different positioning. This took a couple of different saws to accomplish, and Double D had to go through two different layers of plywood to get to where we could see the pipes.  We also didn’t know what we would be cutting into.  Finally, we got it cut out.Cut out hole for toilet pipes

So…Joe came back, looked at the pipes, and said that it would be no problem to move the pipes.  Yay!  He moved them, and left a tall pipe piece sticking out for Double D to cut around when he was measuring for the replacement wood.  Double D installed two new pieces of plywood, and they actually were level with the rest of the flooring. That was one thing we were concerned about. The below picture also shows the drywall ripped out, and the shut off line moved farther down the wall. Toilet pipe finished

Next it was time to start laying the flooring.  We decided to go with a Luxury Vinyl Tile, with an attached pad. Since we had tried to rip up the original floor, and failed, there was a slight height difference and an underlayment pad would be helpful covering that up. We used LVT for the kitchen renovation, and I still really like it one year later.  Adura Max by Mannington had the one we wanted, in a grey weathered concrete look called Carbon, in the Meridian collection. This product is also water resistant, which is really good for bathrooms;)Starting to lay the floor

This flooring has the Lock Solid feature, and literally the planks just snapped together.  I think the actual laying of all of the planks took about an hour. The best part is that you wouldn’t even know that the original floor had been messed with, because you don’t feel it when you walk on the LVT. flooring laid

Next came the trim.  There was no way we could use the trim that originally came with the bathroom, and I didn’t want to have to stain new trim to match the door and window trim. This part was the hardest for us to decide on, until we were talking with our drywall guy, Dave.  I had no idea that they made PVC trim, but it does make sense for decking, etc. After talking with him, we looked at Menards, and found some 1″x3″x8′ pieces that we liked.  They were plain on one side, and wood textured on the other.  I decided to use the plain side, and painted it the same color as the walls.  I really like the effect this creates, since there isn’t a sharp dividing line between the floors and the walls. We could have just used 1x3s in wood too, but this was super easy to paint, and it is water resistant. PVC Trim painted

We used Liquid Nails, and glued each piece to the wall. I figured if we had to take it off at some point, there would just be more trim going up to cover the marks. I also used some caulk to fill in the triangle left in the corner of the trim, once we trimmed out the rounded corner pieces.  I then painted that and it blends perfectly. The only thing I’m not completely sold on is that it does stick out a bit farther than the trim on the door.  We decided to leave that trim the original, since the door casing and door didn’t get painted as well. Finished corner piece caulkedtrim painted and glued

The last piece was the threshold.  This was available with the Adura Max products, and it matches the flooring. It basically just joins the LVT with the carpet that is in the hallway.  Looks good!Piece of flooring for threshold

And here is the finished floor, with the new vent installed.  I love how it looks with the wall color, and the new rug we just got. Don’t mind the gears.  We were using those as weights so that the floor wouldn’t shift while we were laying it. It really feels like this bathroom is finally coming along!Floor completely done

The last thing we did was install the toilet.  I’m including a before and after picture, just because of the difference the repositioning has made.  It just makes that area seem more open and we have a lot more room. I will have to find something fun to hide the water line, because I know the toilet brush holder isn’t it:) Toilet facing out

Thanks for looking!  More bathroom remodel to come, so stay tuned!

Sarah

Check out the other Bathroom Renovation posts:

Bathroom Remodel: Part 1, Demo

Bathroom Remodel: Part 2, Shower Installation

Bathroom Remodel: Part 3, Drywall and Paint

Bathroom Remodel: Part 5, DIY Exposed Conduit Light Fixture

Bathroom Remodel: Part 6, DIY Sink from Typewriter Stand

Linking up with:

Rustic & Refined

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Between Naps on the Porch

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Domestically Speaking

Inspire-Me-Monday4_thumb3

Home Stories A-Z

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A Stroll Thru Life

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